Click here for an instructional video on WINTER PLANTING
 Click here for an instructional video on SUMMER PLANTING






1)  Prepare hole by digging slightly deeper and wider than the bag.

2)  Hold rose over hole and pull rose out of bag letting the potting mix fall into the hole.

3)  Mound the potting mix and place rose on top lightly spreading the roots evenly around the mound.

4) The crown of the rose (where the branches grow from) should be level with or slightly above the ground level.


5)  Fill the hole in with soil and water well.














2)  Prepare hole by digging as deep but slightly wider than the black bag the rose is in.

3) Using a sharp knife or secateurs, cut around the bottom of the bag and peel the bottom of the bag completely off.

4) Place the rose in the hole with bag still in place.

5) The crown of the rose (where the branches grow from) should be level with or slightly above the ground level.

6)  Slice up the side of the bag with the kife and gently remove the bag from the hole.

7)  Fill in the hole, firm the soil down

and water well.


8) With sandy soils that lose moisture quickly, we recommend you create a moate around the base of the rose that will puddle the water around the rootball where it is needed and not run off else where. Once the roses has established the moat can be smoothed out. 





Water is the most important thing your roses need to grow well. Yes, more important than feeding and spraying.

The difference between a beautiful rose garden and an average rose garden is usually the amount of water they get.

All gardens are different, so there are no strict rules about how much and how often you should water your roses.

A simple test to check if your roses need water is to push your index finger into the soil near your rose as deep as you can, if it comes out dry then you need to water.

REMEMBER a well watered rose:-

 - Fights disease better, so you need to spray less often.

 - Takes up nutrients better, so fertilising is more effective.

 - Flowers more profusely.

 - Has glossy and lush green foliage.

 - Has bushier growth.


There are too numerous rose fertilisers on the market to mention and so many secret recipes, I could fill this entire website and still not list them all. Here are our recommendations for feeding, use this as a guide only, all gardens are different and require different nutrients.

    Nitrophoska Extra. Apply about 3 applications from early Spring to late summer (September to March).

    This is a complete food containing everything the rose needs. Spread it around the drip line ( not up against the stem) as the drip       line is where the feeding roots are.

    Nitrophoska Extra is not recommended for roses in pots. 

    Garden lime (or Dolomite lime): Apply over rose garden once every 2 or 3 years to keep acidity down. Not needed

    in some gardens. A soil PH meter is useful to determine this and is not expensive. A soil ph of between 6 and 6.5 is


We do not recommend fresh manure. Some gardens perform superbly with aged manure and some disasterously. Use caution when applying any manure.

                                                                  Return to top of page  



Winter Spraying:

1) Prune roses first (see pruning).

2) Spray 1 application of Lime Sulphur a fews days after pruning the roses.

3) Two weeks later spray 1 application of Kiwicare Organic Super spraying oil.

4) At first sign of new spring growth spray one application of copper oxychloride or copper kocide.


- Lime  Sulphur and oil must never be mixed or spayed together.

- Oil and Copper Oxychloride can be mixed together and is often done as the oil helps the copper to stick to the roses.

- Never mix Liquid Copper and Oil together.

- Copper washes off easily and may need to be reapplied after rain.

- Copper helps protect new growth from frosts that occur in late spring.

- Liquid Copper adheres to leaves better than powdered Copper & won't shrink away from the leaf edge as it dries, thereby ensuring   better protection.

- When there is considerable new spring growth, stop oil and copper and start summer sprays as oil and copper (together )may

  burn the new foliage.


Summer Spraying:

There are two basic methods of spraying roses throughout the growing season.

1) Preventative Spraying - Spray regularly (every two weeks or so) to prevent disease from taking hold.

This is highly effective resulting in very clean, glossy, healthy looking roses. Use a combination fungicide / pesticide to control a wide range of diseases and pests. It is advisable to alternate 2 or 3 different types of spray to prevent a build up of resistance to the one spray.

2) Targetted Spraying - Spray your roses when they are attacked by a particular pest or disease.

 This way you can spray the most effective spray for the disease your rose has.

When your roses are clean, don't spray at all. You may be surprised by how long your roses go without showing up any disease or pests (or not). The old addage, prevention is better than cure applies here though, so be prepared to spray 2 or 3 times to erradicate stubborn diseases.

Method one is the most effective way to keep roses looking good all season long. Although it is more time consuming and costly, most keen gardeners prefer this method over the second.

Method two is more for the casual gardener who doesn't mind the odd bug on their plants. You also run the risk of disease taking hold. This means the disease is stronger than the spray you are putting on it, resulting in sick looking roses, even dead roses.



                                                                 Return to top of page





The main reason we prune our roses is to maintain a tidy, well balanced plant.The best time to prune your roses is in the Winter time when the rose bush has gone into it's Winter dormancy. June or July are generally the preferred months but some folk will prune in August, it all depends on where you live in the country. 

Use sharp secateurs when you prune to prevent damage to the bush. 

Ideally when you prune, you will remove all wind damaged, insect damaged and dead stems first, also any stems that are crossing over each other through the middle of the bush. By removing weak & crossing over stems from the middle of the bush, you are helping to develope an open, airy bush that will allow good air flow & light into the heart of the rose thus helping to maintain good health. Every one has their preferred height to prune a rose to but personally, I prune about 1/2 of the height off the bush. Try to cut to an outside facing bud as the new growth will grow up & outwards, helping to develop an open, airy rose bush. 

When you trim off old flowers ( dead head) off your rose bushes at the end of each flush of flowers, don't just remove the flower, cut further down the stem- about the length from your elbow to your wrist and again to an outward facing bud. This is a little mini prune each time and the resulting new growth will produce lovely strong canes with large blooms once again. If you do only remove the flower itself, the next flush of flowers will produce smaller blooms on weaker, twiggy growth. 

Modern climbers will need pruning during Winter.

Ramblers however, are different and need to be pruned during Summer after their main flowering. Because Ramblers generally only flower once in the season, if they are pruned in Summer (January), they will then send up their new growth over the rest of Summer which you will train, then these canes will have flowers on them the following Spring. If you prune Ramblers during the Winter, you will be removing the new rose canes that will be carrying the next flush of flowers and your rose will probably not flower that season.


 The main pests to affect roses are Aphids (green fly), rose scale ( a white cluster of bugs covering the rose stems) & two spotted spider mite. The best remedy for rose scale & spider mite is a Winter Oil spray applied during Winter when the rose has no leaves. The oil will smother the bugs & kill them. After a few days you must scrape away this scale from the stems either with a firm toothbrush or small wire brush.The oil will also smother & kill any over wintering mite eggs left hiding on the undersides of these stems. There are a number of sprays on the market that will help to eradicate these pests. Both are sucking insects that left unchecked will compromise the health of your rose.
Alternatively, encourage the local bird population into your garden & beneficial insects by planting flowers that will attract them. 
The biggest bug bear on rose plants is Black Spot & Rust. As mentioned above, by spraying a fungicide, watering & feeding your roses regularly will help compact these diseases. Just like humans, if your plants are well fed & watered they will be better armed to fend off infections & disease.




Roses grow happily in pots if the pot is a generous size, for example:

A pot at least the size of a 15 litre bucket will happily grow a rose bush for up to three years if you use a premium potting mix. We recommend  peat based potting mixes. Osmocote slow release fertilizer pills added  to the potting mix will slowly break down & release it's nutrients over an 6-7 month period.

Watering is the key to success and during the height of Summer, twice a day is often needed. Include a liquid fertilizer( Seaweed / fish based) once a month in the watering can at the recommended application.

There are a number of smaller growing bush roses and miniatures that do exceedingly well in pots. Standard roses look amazing growing in pots too, especially underplanted with your favorite annuals. These make a great statement either side of entrance ways into gardens and on decks.


South Pacific Roses


ChristchurchView Map

Shand Road, RD6, Hornby, Christchurch
Ph. 03 349 6458

Kapiti CoastView Map

State Highway 1, RD1, Otaki
Ph. 06 364 8797

Find us Facebook